I remembered the first time I replaced a kitchen faucet. The cabinet smelled like damp wood, and the old nuts felt welded in place. I wanted a clean upgrade, and I wanted it done without panic in the middle of it. I followed a simple method and finished with steady hands, and that feeling stayed with me.
Quick Answer / Summary Box
I shut off both water valves, then I opened the old faucet to release pressure. I removed supply lines, loosened mounting hardware, and lifted the faucet out with slow patience. I cleaned the sink deck, set the new faucet with a gasket or putty, and tightened the mount evenly from below. I reconnected lines, flushed the aerator, and checked every joint for a small weep, and the job ended calmly.
Optional Table of Contents
I kept the flow simple and sitelink-friendly. I moved from understanding the job to doing it, then I compared options and ended with checks. I followed this order: what the work meant, step-by-step installation, tools and faucet choices, examples and checklist, mistakes to avoid, practical FAQs, trust notes, and a final wrap.
H2: What it is (and why it matters)
I treated a kitchen faucet installation as two jobs in one. I handled water control under the sink, and I handled sealing and stability on top. Hard leaks ruined cabinets quietly, and loose bases made every use feel cheap, even on a premium faucet. A careful install mattered because it protected the sink deck, protected the shutoff valves, and kept the daily routine smooth in a way people only noticed when it failed.
H2: How to do it (step-by-step)
I started by clearing the cabinet and laying an old towel down, and I kept a bucket close. I turned both shutoff valves clockwise until they stopped, then I opened the faucet to drain pressure and left it open for a moment. I disconnected the hot and cold supply lines, and I labeled them with tape for a small sanity boost. I loosened the mounting nuts with a basin wrench, removed the faucet, cleaned the surface, set the new faucet straight, tightened the bracket evenly, reconnected lines, then I turned water back on slowly and checked for leaks with dry tissue, and the finish felt quiet and solid.
H2: Best methods / tools / options
I used a basin wrench when space felt cruel, and it saved my knuckles. I preferred new braided stainless supply lines because old lines twisted and aged out, and that risk felt not worth it. I chose a faucet with a wide base plate when the sink showed old scars, and I chose a single-hole faucet when I wanted the deck to look calm. I also kept plumber’s tape for threaded joints that needed it, but I avoided wrapping it on compression fittings, since that habit led to more confusion than help in the end.
H2: Examples / templates / checklist
I followed a repeatable pattern that worked on most sinks. I used this template: shutoff valves closed, pressure relieved, lines removed, mount removed, deck cleaned, faucet seated, mount tightened, lines reconnected, aerator removed, flush run, aerator replaced, final leak check completed. I also kept a short checklist in my head: tools ready, light ready, bucket ready, gasket aligned, hoses not kinked, nuts snug not brutal, and every joint dry after five minutes. I finished by wiping the faucet and sink once, because the clean surface made the whole upgrade look more expensive than it cost.
H2: Mistakes to avoid
I learned that rushing under the sink created the worst problems. I avoided overtightening plastic mounting parts, because a cracked bracket failed later and never warned early. I avoided reusing old supply lines when they looked fine, since “fine” turned into dripping after a week, which felt like a personal insult. I also avoided skipping the deck cleaning step, because residue kept the gasket from sealing and invited a slow, sneaky leak, and that kind of leak aged cabinets in a sad way.
H2: FAQs
Shutoff valves that did not fully stop
I turned them off, but I still saw a slow drip in the lines. I used the main water shutoff for the home, then I continued with a calmer mind. I replaced the shutoff valves later when time allowed, since half-working valves felt like a future emergency waiting quietly. I treated that as normal in older plumbing, and I stayed patient with it.
Low water pressure after installation
I saw a weak flow once, and it bothered me fast. I removed the aerator, flushed the line into a bucket, and cleared debris that hid inside like sand. I also checked the supply lines for kinks, because a gentle bend reduced flow more than it seemed it should. I restored normal pressure and the faucet finally felt alive again.
Drips at connections after turning water on
I saw a small bead of water at a joint. I turned water off, dried the area, then I tightened the fitting in small steps until it stopped. I avoided crushing the connection with force, because that “one more turn” instinct broke parts. I ended with a dry tissue test, and that simple test told the truth.
Trust + Proof Section
I handled several faucet swaps in cramped cabinets, and I remembered the same pressure each time. I kept notes on what caused leaks, and it usually came down to dirty surfaces, misaligned gaskets, or rushed tightening. I also learned to respect lighting, because a small headlamp turned frustration into a controlled sequence. Author: SAM. Updated date: 2026-01-08.
Conclusion
I finished a faucet install by slowing down at the last ten percent. I checked every joint, wiped everything dry, and listened for the faint hiss that hinted at a problem. I treated the final leak check like the real finish line, not the photo moment. Next, I saved a simple checklist for the next project, and I moved on with a kitchen that felt steadier every day.